c.1510s Lowland Scottish Gentlewoman’s Clothing

Hand-stitched worsted wool gown stiffened with linen canvas and lined with salvaged vintage fur; hand-stitched woollen kirtle stiffened with linen canvas and trimmed with silk velvet; hand-stitched wool hose; hand-stitched wool partlet; hand-stitched silk brocade sleeves; hand-stitched and embroidered coifs and hood; hand-stitched silk belt
Shoes purchased; gold reliquary cross by Danegeld Jewellery

Photos by James Johnson, Edinburgh, 2021

1510s ‘French’ Hood

Based on entries in the Scottish royal Treasurer’s Accounts

Hand-stitched linen coif with cartridge-pleated gold silk organza edging; hand-stitched red silk habotai ‘schaffron’ coif with gold plaited stitch embroidery; hand-stitched black cotton velvet hood with white ribbed silk lining and brass bead edging.

Photos by Perin Westerhof Nyman, Edinburgh, 2021

Stays/Corset Comparison

Waistline and silhouette comparison between hand-stitched c.1780 linen stays with steamed reed bones, self-drafted from historical examples (worn with Victorian chemise for consistency); blue silk taffeta 1850s corset with flat steel bones and busk, drafted with 1850s proportions from an original pattern in an 1876 edition of De Gracieuse; red cotton 1890s corset with flat steel bones and busk, adapted from a pattern taken by Jill Salen from an original 1890s corset; 1903 cotton broche coutil straight-front (‘s-bend’) corset with flat steel bones and busk, adapted from a pattern taken by Atelier Sylphe from an original 1900s corset

Made as teaching aid for ‘THEA 4407: Aesthetics of Historical Dress’ at Dalhousie University, 2020-2021

Photos by James Johnson, Edinburgh, 2020

Eighteenth-Century Carnevale Outfit

Hand-stitched silk brocade jacket with hand-embroidered stomacher (plant- and insect-dyed polychrome silks on silk satin); hand-quilted silk and wool petticoat (outer silk dyed with indigo and pomegranate); hand-stitched cotton neck ruffle and vintage gauze cuff ruffles; hand-stitched silk mitts; hand-embroidered pinball
Shoes and stockings purchased
Hairdressing by James Johnson

Photos by James Johnson, Venice, 2020

1896 Convertible Walking Dress/Tea Gown

Printed silk outer gown with puffed sleeves supported by horsehair canvas; cotton pleated shirtwaist and matching skirt; cotton organdie petticoat; antique hat and ribbons; antique net gloves

Photos by James Johnson, Venice, 2020

1911 Corset

Transitional straight-front/longline corset of pink satin and corsetry coutil with flat steel bones and tapered steel busk, metallic lace, and cotton flossing

Photos by James Johnson, Edinburgh, 2020

1903 Corset and Foundational Garments

Straight-fronted (‘S-bend’) corset of spot broche coutil, with flat steel bones and busk, silk binding, cotton lace, cotton flossing; swiss dot cotton corset cover with hand-stitched lace insets and silk ribbons; antique petticoat
Stockings and button boots purchased

Photos by James Johnson and Perin Westerhof Nyman, Edinburgh, 2020

Late Eleventh-Century/Early Twelfth-Century English or Lowland Scottish Clothing

Hand-stitched diamond twill wool gown with silk sleeve hems; hand-stitched linen underdress (dyed with walnut husks), with diamond twill wool cuffs and hand-embroidered trim (plant-dyed polychrome silk on plant-dyed silk plain-weave ground); hand-stitched silk wimple and veil; tablet-woven wool belt; hand-stitched wool twill hose; hand-stitched leather shoes with wool ties
Purse made by James Johnson

Final photo shows underdress with earlier gown and accessories

Photo on left by Chelsea Reutcke, York, 2020; photos on right by James Johnson, York, 2019

c.1318 Lowland Scottish Gentlewoman’s Clothing

Made to celebrate the 700th anniversary of the consecration of St Andrews Cathedral.

Hand-stitched wool gown with vintage rabbit fur trim and silk ribbon at neckline (red side commercially dyed; yellow side naturally dyed in onion skins); hand-stitched grey linen kirtle with self buttons; hand-stitched green wool liripipe hood with linen lining and self buttons; hand-stitched black velvet belt; hand-stitched silk wimple and veil; hand-stitched wool twill hose with linen lining (wool dyed in onion skins); hand-stitched wool purse (wool hand-woven in pavy weave on counterbalance floor loom); hand-stitched and hand-cut red leather shoes
Belt fittings and pilgrimage badges purchased; paternoster by Rachel Ost

First photo by Rachel Hart and other outfit photos by James Johnson, St Andrews, 2018; hose photos by James Johnson, Edinburgh, 2020

1530s Scottish Noble Toddler’s Clothing

Based on entries in the Scottish royal Treasurer’s Accounts and images of toddler-age boys from Tudor England.

Hand-stitched striped wool kirtle with tie-on bias cut sleeves, interlined in the bodice with linen canvas and lined in linen, with linen tape ties in back; hand-stitched gold silk taffeta outer gown, lined in linen and decorated with velvet ribbon

Photos of Theodore Cordes (feat. Christy Mackenzie) by Perin Westerhof Nyman, Raglan Castle, 2019, shared with permission from Theo’s parents

c.1780 Milliner or Mantuamaker’s Clothing

Made while representing a stitcher in the Margaret Hunter Millinery and Matuamaking Shop at Colonial Williamsburg, VA in 2015; updated to wear at the public ‘Wedding Gown in a Weekend’ demonstration presented at National Museums Scotland in 2019

Hand-stitched cotton chintz gown and matching petticoat; hand-stitched silk taffeta mitts; hand-stitched silk gauze kerchief; hand-stitched cotton cap
Shoes and stockings purchased
Hairdressing by Katy Stockwell

Outdoor photos by James Johnson; indoor photos by Katy Stockwell; all Edinburgh, 2019

1873 Ballgown

Silk taffeta and silk brocade bodice with silk taffeta and silk gauze bertha and plastic whalebone waist stays; silk taffeta and silk brocade ballgown skirt and apron, interlined with cotton organdie, with cotton organdie dust ruffles; outer silk ruffles crimped using antique 1860s fluting iron; all trims and bindings hand-stitched; cotton organdie petticoats; vintage kid leather gloves; vintage jewellery
Shoes and stockings purchased

Three-piece suit of tails worn by James Johnson: hand-stitched wool barathea tailcoat with silk satin lapels and horsehair and wool felt interlinings; cotton piqué waistcoat; hand-stitched wool barathea trousers with silk satin braid; antique shirt; antique bowtie
Made with tailoring instruction by Anneke Henderson

Upper right outfit photo by Timelight Photography, Bath, 2018; all other outfit photos by L.R. Stern, Bath, 2018; progress photos by Perin Westerhof Nyman and James Johnson, St Andrews, 2018

1815 Ballgown

Hand-stitched silk gauze gown with brocaded silk organza trim; hand-stitched white cotton undergown; brass and beetle elytra hair ornament; hand-stitched green taffeta and leather dancing slippers; hand-stitched silk and beetle elytra reticule; vintage kid leather gloves; antique and vintage jewellery
Stockings purchased

Outfit worn by Chelsea Reutcke: hand-stitched blue silk gauze gown; hand-stitched cotton undergown; vintage gloves

Photo of shoe and dancing by Juliette Lichman Photography, Edinburgh, 2017; other photos by James Johnson and Chelsea Reutcke, Edinburgh, 2018

Mid Fifteenth-Century German Gentlewoman’s Clothing

Hand-stitched cotton velvet gown (cotton used as substitute for silk or wool velvet) with hand-cut brass closures; hand-stitched linen kirtle; gold cotton damask sleeves (cotton used as substitute for silk); hand-stitched silk veil; hand-stitched silk and leather belt; hand-stitched and hand-cut red leather shoes
Belt fittings purchased

Made 2015; photos by James Johnson, Blackness Castle, 2019

c.1850 Ballgown with Beetle Elytra Embroidery

Hand-stitched ivory cotton muslin bodice with white cotton lining, plastic whalebone waist stays, cotton cording, and gold organza trim; hand-stitched ivory cotton muslin skirt, hand-embroidered with real beetle elytra and gold silk floss; hand-stitched green silk and leather dancing slippers; worn over hand-stitched cotton organdy corded petticoat; purchased reproduction scarab earrings; vintage kid gloves and antique real scarab ring

First two photos by Timelight Photography, Bath, 2017; photo of hair ornament by Emma Forrest, Bath, 2016; photo of corded petticoat by Greta Pepper, Halifax, 2015

1780s Fife Fishwife’s Clothing

Made for public presentations in St Andrews on the history of Fife’s harbours and the maritime fashions worn there between the 1780s and 1840s.

Hand-stitched printed cotton bedgown, lined with linen; hand-stitched linen petticoats; hand-stitched stockinette mitts replicating those made from recycled stockings in period
Kerchief, stockings, and shoes purchased
Baskets made by Adam Hodges-LeClaire, Perin Westerhof Nyman, and Emma Forrest

Sources are a watercolour sketch of a Fife fishwife by David Allan, c.1785 (National Gallery of Scotland, acc. no. D 404) and photos taken in St Andrews by David Octavius Hill and Robert Adamson in the 1840s (shown is Metropolitan Museum of Art, acc. no. 37.98.1.63)

Photos by Noël Heaney, St Andrews, 2016

1720s-40s Robe à la Française

Made to represent Dame Marie-Josèphe le Borgne de Belle Isle for the 300th anniversary of the town and fortress of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia.

Reconstruction of gown in LACMA collection (Los Angeles County Museum of Art), acc. no. M.2007.211.927a-b
Hand-stitched silk taffeta gown with linen bodice lining and matching petticoat (silk commercially dyed blue and naturally overdyed with pomegranate and alum); hand-embroidered stomacher (plant- and insect-dyed polychrome silks and twisted silk and metal floss on silk satin ground); hand-stitched cotton neck ruffle and vintage gauze cuff ruffles; vintage jewellery
Hairdressing by Emma Forrest
Stockings and shoes purchased

Top photos by Perin Westerhof Nyman and Ed Nyman, Halifax, 2015; bottom left and right photos by Alana Rooke; bottom middle photo by L.R. Stern; all Palace of Versailles, 2016

Late Fourteenth-Century/Fifteenth-Century Gentlewoman’s Clothing

Hand-stitched wool twill gown, shown with various combinations of removable hand-stitched silk sleeves and shown both before and after addition of integral full-length sleeves (bottom left photo) and gold silk floss hand-embroidery (complete in bottom left photo); hand-stitched linen kirtle with self buttons; hand-stitched green wool hood with self buttons; hand-stitched silk veil; hand-stitched black velvet belt; hand-stitched and hand-cut red leather shoes
Red tasselled paternoster by Rachel Ost; coral paternoster by James Johnson
Belt fittings and pilgrimage badges purchased

Three top right photos by Edward Nyman, Toronto, 2013; top left and bottom right photos by Rob Ross, Buckden Towers, 2017; Bottom left and middle photos by James Johnson, St Andrews, 2018 and Edinburgh, 2020, respectively